NL Double Board Bomb Pot
The room I play started a new game. 1/3 $1000 cap where every time the button passes the dealer, a $10 double board NLH bomb pot is played. These are max 8 tables so every 7-8 hands typically.
Unlike in Omaha, I think it's harder to have really strong value on both boards so my basic strategy is to only get involved if I have nut or near nut potential on at least one board. I think having medium strength hands on both boards is a recipe for bad and other players playing this way is where we will get value.
Then in early streets either bet small or just call or raise small to keep as many players in the hand as possible. Playing too aggressively can easily drive out everybody except a player who has the other board which results in chopping a relatively small pot. Then on later streets apply max pressure. I'm not certain this is correct but what I think. So if I'm horribly wrong, would love to know other opinions.
A sample hand from my first short session in this game. For this I'm calling the first player after the button UTG since there are no blinds.
Hero 6c7s in UTG+1 just sat down with $600. Almost everybody else covers.
Flop: $70
345hh
K64r
UTG leads for $35. Hero calls. 4 other players call.
We flop the stone cold but very vulnerable top board and little hope on the bottom board. If we are in late position and get all that dead money I would probably raise very large. But decided to call here.
Unfortunately, a heart came on the top board on the turn and we had to c/f to 3 players essentially going all-in. But if the top board were clean we would over shove on the turn with about $280 in the pot to try and scoop and if not have tons of equity with tons of dead money.
Thoughts?
3 Replies
I don't understand how the bomb pot is played whenever the button passes the dealer. Does that mean the player in seat one is always on the BTN when these hands are played?
I don't understand just calling the flop when we flop the nuts on a two-flush board. Especially with a 6 and 4 on the bottom board, making it less likely we're chopping on the top board, or that we can get called by middle set on either board, or bottom set on the bottom board.
The limited possibilities of opponents having 76, 66, or 44 would lead me to believe we want to fast play here, not slow play, because our opponents' ranges are going to be heavily weighted towards Kx and draws, and I think Kx and those draws will have a hard time holding on if we continue to barrel future streets.
Take it FWIW. I'm not overly experienced with double board bomb pots.
Not sure my post above makes sense. Here's what I'm thinking...
1. 66 isn't folding, but that's just 1 combo.
2. Ditto for 44, but again, just 1 combo.
3. KK isn't folding, but that's just 3 combos.
4. 64 probably isn't folding, but that's just 4 combos.
5. 76hh is never folding, but that's just 1 combo, and the other combos of 76 might fold if we apply max pressure.
6. A2xx, 32, most 1P + draws, and 1P holdings are probably not holding on.
7. There are 2, or maybe 3 hearts on board, so there's a ton of flush draw combos available, but only 9 or 10 NFD's. Do the non-nut flush draws hang on if we barrel on brick turns?
Just seems to me like there are a ton of flush draws that will call a flop raise and fold to a big turn bet, and we should be targeting those hands for value by betting flop, when there are so few sets available, and we'd like to fold out any chops.
It would be awesome to fold out KX, 76, and non-nut flushes on the turn. It just seems like if we want to generate max fold equity, we need to start by raising flop and barreling turn, not checking flop and waiting for a "safe" turn card, when we really don't have any idea how to range opponents after they flat call a 1/2 pot flop bet IP, getting over 4:1 odds.
Meanwhile, there are a handful of sets and 2P combos we can get value from over 2-3 streets.
Sorry all, the two comments above are me. I didn't realize the new forum created a new username for me when I logged in on Chrome.