PLO Bomb pot bet sizings?
PLO Bomb pot bet sizings?

PLO Bomb pot bet sizings?

They do a bomb pot here at every dealer change, and they seem very profitable.

Can anyone give advice on what bet sizing I should use on flop/turn/river?

Also When I flop a monster and someone bets, should I repot it? Or just call and keep more people in? (With plans to pot turn)

Any general PLO DBBP advice/ common pitfalls? (Especially for non-plo players)

04 December 2024 at 08:39 AM
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16 Replies



Don’t play one board unless you have it locked down with nut flush or boat.

You can generally bet pot unless you are getting half and want to keep multiple players chasing the other half.


by Mojo757 m

They do a bomb pot here at every dealer change, and they seem very profitable.

Can anyone give advice on what bet sizing I should use on flop/turn/river?

Also When I flop a monster and someone bets, should I repot it? Or just call and keep more people in? (With plans to pot turn)

Any general PLO DBBP advice/ common pitfalls? (Especially for non-plo players)

there's a ton of things, let me just give you a few from the top of my head:
1. when you flop a real monster on one side (like top boat or quads), and nothing on the other, bet very small, like 20%ish ... if it goes head-ups, you only chop anyways, so you want multiple people in the hand to make a profit
2. nuts in bomb pots really depends on what kind of nuts: a nut str (even with redraw) or a nut flush can still turn into a boat, so when you only have this, and not much on the other side be careful
3. very difficult is when you are drawing on both sides (even with monsters), i advice to only call at first, only when you make one side and are still live on the other side you can escalate
4. it all obv always depends on how many people are interested in the pot
5. people make brutal mistakes in bomb pots, if you learn to play them well it will be highly profitable


Most of the pros have been betting small on the flop on the lockdown boards.

A nut flush on board with nothing on the other board isn't actually really that great. Even full houses are not totally safe in the Bomb Pots as I see a lot of Quads happening at times.

There's already a lot of money in the pot right? I feel like if both boards are more draw heavy then you can bet much bigger in those situations on flop, especially if you have some equity on both of the boards, especially nut equity. Anytime you bet the pot can escalate very quickly in that game the pots size could get huge! I see some weaker players potting on the flop every time they have the nuts, which for me makes it much easier to play my hand a lot of the time.

At least where I have played the bomb pots live, the regulars have been improving a lot. If there is a fish in there they can definitely quickly lose their stacks or get free rolled.


by Kripalu1 m

At least where I have played the bomb pots live, the regulars have been improving a lot. If there is a fish in there they can definitely quickly lose their stacks or get free rolled.

totally agree with this observation, the difference in skill in bomb pots is getting wider, bad players are exposed much easier and often eaten alive very quickly.


by Kripalu1 m

I feel like if both boards are more draw heavy then you can bet much bigger in those situations on flop, especially if you have some equity on both of the boards, especially nut equity.

disagree with this one though ... having "some equity" especially on draw heavy boards can be recipe for disaster, seen it over and over.
you play your hand/draw against 7 other players, everyone with a random hand, and often you need to make the nuts at least on one side to not loose money.

example:
B1: JT2 with 2 hearts
B2: Q94 rainbow

you have KQ96 with King high hearts.
so with a 3 quarter wrap and second nut flush draw on B1 (if it was just a normal PLO not bomb pot hand) you would not be going anywhere, right?

The thing is: the guy with nothing on B2 (may be just bottom pair), but lets say set and nut flush draw on B1 can go really hard on this one, and you haven't factored in what all the other guys might play. The real issue is that you can't put anybody on some kind of range, bc it's a bomb pot, so it's all random hands, which makes it so difficult, especially in draw heavy situation.
So here i would always only ever call and even fold if i see major action (like bet, call, and reraise in front of me), bc the nut flush draw is out there for sure then, and all of a sudden my monster draw on B1 doesn't look so good anymore, and i'm basically hoping to get some money on B2 with my top2 and gutter


What are situations when I should re-pot it?


example:
B1: JT2 with 2 hearts
B2: Q94 rainbow

you have KQ96 with King high hearts.
so with a 3 quarter wrap and second nut flush draw on B1 (if it was just a normal PLO not bomb pot hand) you would not be going anywhere, right?

I think with a hand like AKQ9 and nut hearts I would be more likely to play it fast. Or like KQQX especially KQQ hh....

The hand you posted I'd like to see a turn card there for sure but it's not like I would want to get stacks in on the flop.

For example, if I'm in early position I might bet out small at some frequency, or if it's checked to me in late position I don't mind betting here at mid frequency here to push my equity and thin out the players in the pot....IF I get check raised for pot and we are deep in the hand you posted, I'm not happy about it. If it was bet, raise, re raise and stacks were going in I think I can find a fold here because I can easily be up against a bigger made hand on the bottom and be drawing thin on the top or for a chop....That's why I like the idea of having different bet sizes on the flops and splitting up my range in to bet folding and bet calls, and checking. Checking there would be a fine play with the hand you posted at a high frequency IMO


by Kripalu1 m

example:B1: JT2 with 2 heartsB2: Q94 rainbowyou have KQ96 with King high hearts.so with a 3 quarter wrap and second nut flush draw on B1 (if it was just a normal PLO not bomb pot hand) you would not be going anywhere, right?I think with a hand like AKQ9 and nut hearts I would be more likely to play it fast. Or like KQQX especially KQQ hh....The hand you posted I'd like to see

well, then we pretty much agree, or i might have misunderstood your earlier posting
also, the hand you laid out, having the nut fl draw (vs. second nuts) and the top wrap is a big difference obv


by Mojo757 m

What are situations when I should re-pot it?

not many tbh, only very specific situations

what do you gain by re-potting, is the question you should ask?
again, it's all about how many players are interested and willing to put money in the pot.

a repot makes sense for example if one guy leads and another calls or raises with not much behind, and you have the lock on one side with nothing on the other... bc then you will def. make money no matter what since it's 3 ways, and from the action you know they are not folding to your RR.

this happens often in paired board situations where both other guys play the same side (say a 882 board, the both have an 8 with over cards), and you are very strong on the other side


by Pokerbros_Player m

well, then we pretty much agree, or i might have misunderstood your earlier posting
also, the hand you laid out, having the nut fl draw (vs. second nuts) and the top wrap is a big difference obv

Very much depends on stack sizes and tendencies for the players at the table, and positions, but I haven't thought about this in terms of SPR but I feel like an SPR of higher than 3 to 1 seems big enough I wouldn't be super excited about your hand with a full table. Like if I had a 1K stack and there was 400 in there, I would probably feel good about getting in with your hand.

I feel like at a 3 to 1 SPR I would be more cautious, and getting up to 4 or 5 SPR the requirements go way up to having the nut draws like the hands I posted....


by Pokerbros_Player m

well, then we pretty much agree, or i might have misunderstood your earlier posting
also, the hand you laid out, having the nut fl draw (vs. second nuts) and the top wrap is a big difference obv

If you have a lock on one board and you have a good draw on another board, I feel like that's a great time to push your equity.

Also on the river if you have the nuts on one board, you're guaranteed half the pot right? So you can put a lot of pressure on your opponent when the stack get deeper.

Let's say you had quads on the river on one board but not much on the other, maybe just a flush blocker and the flush got there on the river. You could try to push him off of the other board where you don't have anything to avoid splitting the pot with him.

Straights can be counterfeited right? If you had a straight, your opponent can also have the same hand. If you have a nut flush your opponent might be live with a set, but it's much stronger than a nut straight where it's easier to be tied and then you're going to need a good hand on the other board to avoid getting quartered.


by Kripalu1 m

If you have a lock on one board and you have a good draw on another board, I feel like that's a great time to push your equity.

yes and no.
when this looks to be a heads-up situation you also have to balance to not lose the other guy (since you have a lock on side, and good draw on the other), what can he have?

pushing equity too hard and early in this spot you risk of him just folding (if he's somewhat competent)

of course when there's a 3rd player in the pot, then get in as much as you can as early as possible, no doubt.

by Kripalu1 m

Also on the river if you have the nuts on one board, you're guaranteed half the pot right? So you can put a lot of pressure on your opponent when the stack get deeper. Let's say you had quads on the river on one board but not much on the other, maybe just a flush blocker and the flush got there on the river. You could try to push him off of the other board where you don't ha

1. but must be real nuts (like nut flush or top boat), nut str is what the other guy can also have
2. yeah, the concept of trying to get him out when you only play one board applies of course, gotta make it believable though
3. again, from my experience the most tricky situations (where also the biggest mistakes happen) is when you are drawing on both sides with multiple players interested .. here it's really key what you are drawing to (nuts or second nuts) and if its a hand that someone else can also have (like str)


It would be cool to see some Bomb pot hand histories of interesting hands.....I'll try to post one the next time I find an interesting spot.


'pushing equity too hard and early in this spot you risk of him just folding (if he's somewhat competent)"

Agree! I think you need to mix up your play here and have some balance in pretty much all spots.

I've seen guys have a lot of results even checking big hands on the flop on the button after everyone checks then piling in a lot of money on the turn. Or check raising a good turn card from an earlier position. This is poker, bomb parts are a very complex topic.

"again, from my experience the most tricky situations (where also the biggest mistakes happen) is when you are drawing on both sides with multiple players interested .. here it's really key what you are drawing to (nuts or second nuts) and if its a hand that someone else can also have (like str)[/QUOTE]"

Yeah I'm in agreement with multiple players and especially with deep stacks (even heads up) you need to have nut hands and nut equity (nut made hand or drawing to the nuts) to risk a large amount of chips!


by Kripalu1 m

It would be cool to see some Bomb pot hand histories of interesting hands.....I'll try to post one the next time I find an interesting spot.

i start a vegas trip next sunday, there will be tons of bomb pot hands .. i'll pick some and post if they are interesting


lot of nits in this thread. Stacks are shallow. Be more aggro than these comments so far suggest.
Big difference if you can get heads up or have to go against 2 or 3 others

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