An exhaustive list of all the factors influencing cbet size & frequency

An exhaustive list of all the factors influencing cbet size & frequency

Hey everyone. Currently doing a deep dive on cbetting and something that bugs me is that a lot of the resources I've found recommend just studying certain spots and learning how often and how big you should cbet in those cases. I hate learning by memorising, significantly preferring to understand the whys and then using that to figure out what I should do in a given spot.

I've been looking around for an exhaustive list of all the factors that you should take into account when deciding whether to cbet, and how big to cbet, but can't find anything. So I thought I'd post the different factors I've come across so far as I'd imagine it's a topic many could find useful and/or interesting, especially if people with much better understanding of GTO than me also chime in.

I'm a GTO beginner so I'm sure I'll have misunderstood some things, missed some things entirely, and made a lot of mistakes, so any corrections or expansions would be massively appreciated.

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So first off, cbet frequency. Starting with the most important factors. I.e. for a given spot, if something higher up the list is telling you to bet often but something lower down the list tells you to bet less often, you should still lean towards betting more often.

1) Position

In position we want to be cbetting way more often. IP it's easier for us to control the pot size on later streets, and harder for our opponent to float as if they call, they have to make another decision before seeing what we do on the turn. It allows us to check back a lot of turns which helps us realise our equity, but it also sets us up to continue barrelling if we want.

2) Range advantage

In spots where we have a range advantage, we want to cbet more often. We're going to be ahead a lot of the time, so we obviously want to build the pot when we are. But we need to also cbet our worse hands to ensure we get value when we're ahead. It also often prevents the opponent from realising their equity, e.g. when the board misses us both they will have decent equity (either they have the higher card and are ahead, or they don't but have 6 outs to make a pair) and cbetting forces them to give up that equity because with NPND they're so far behind our range they cannot continue.

3) How strong our hand is.

With our strongest hands, we want to cbet for value. Similarly, with our weakest hands the only equity we might have is fold equity. So we sometimes want to bet those too. With medium strength hands, checking might be the best play as we can't get any value from worse, but we can induce bluffs which might be the only way to get more value considering our hand strength. Obviously you can't just always bet your strong/weak hands and always check your medium strength hands as it would be too easy to exploit, but it's a factor we can consider.

4) How big we want to bet

In spots where we're betting smaller, we can bet more often. In spots where we want to bet bigger, we should bet less often. I'm not sure I understand why this is, so if anyone can expand that would be great.

5) Do we want to get raised or not?

Seems obvious, but if we are happy to get raised then we should be cbetting more. E.g. our nutty hands that will always want to continue regardless, or our big draws which are happy to re-raise/jam over the raise. In spots where we don't want to see a raise, we should be cbetting less. E.g. TPWK or weaker draws.

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Next up bet sizing. Again, starting with most important.

1) Nut advantage

In spots where we have the nut advantage, we want to bet bigger. When we have the nuts, we want to get as much value as possible, and when we don't, we can easily put villain in a tricky situation with their medium strength hands where it's hard for them to continue considering our nut advantage.

2) Range advantage

In spots where we have the range advantage, we can bet smaller because we'll still have decent FE with our bluffs, and smaller bets allow us to also extract value out of their medium strength hands which aren't doing great against our range. In spots where we don't have range advantage, we might want to bet bigger to polarize our range and both get more value when we are ahead, and get more FE when we're behind.

3) Position

I think that OOP we should generally be betting bigger, and IP we can bet smaller. I'm not sure why though. Perhaps to discourage floating and compensate for the fact that OOP it's much harder for us to realise our equity at showdown compared to our opponent?

4) SPR

The lower the SPR, the smaller we should be betting. I.e. in 3bet and 4bet pots, we can bet smaller than in SRPs. We can cbet small with our value hands, knowing that we'll still be able to get stacks in by the river, but we'll simultaneously have more FE with our bluffs, as our opponent's know that by calling a small flop cbet they'd have to be prepared to often face a turn or river jam.

5) How wet the board is

On boards where a lot of turn cards can cause a massive swing in equity, we should be betting smaller. Again, I'm not really sure what the reasoning for this is so if anyone could elaborate that would be great.

6) How polarized our opponent's range is.

If villain has a polarized range, we should be betting smaller as we don't want to be bloating the pot when they do have the nuts, and we have good FE even with a smaller bet when they have complete air.

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Once again, I have almost certainly got a bunch of things wrong as my understanding of GTO is pretty limited. This post was more intended as a discussion-starter (and a sneaky implementation of Cunningham's law), rather than a guide for anyone else to follow. Any/all input would be massively appreciated!

06 June 2024 at 02:42 PM
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9 Replies



The main driver of sizing is where exactly does your range have an edge over your opponents. In cases where your range is stronger across the board, you have more leaway picking sizing based on wetness and such other factors.
Frequency is just a byproduct of how many valuebets you have in range


I think sizing is highly related to which part of our range has the biggest advantage - nut, top, middle, bottom.

For example BTN vs BB AK7r flop, you have a big nut advantage, so you overbet or check.

CO vs BB AA9r, you have a big bottom range advantage, because you don't have many two undercard hands unlike BB, who has a ton, so you bet small.

Or for example if someone check-raises in a super polarized spot and checks the next street, you also have a big bottom range advantage, so you can often stab super small - btw that's at least part of the reason why solvers check-raise merged on super dry flops.

I think when it comes to frequency general range advantage is probably most important, followed in second place by equity realization - which is highly related to nut advantage and nut potential.

EDIT - And I think the general heuristics are often - not always - just a byproduct of these things above.

For example the preflop aggressor often has a large bottom range advantage on very dry non-low boards, therefore betting small on these boards is a good rule of thumb.

No one usually has a large range advantage on monotone flops, therefore betting frequency is low etc.


by aner0 k

The main driver of sizing is where exactly does your range have an edge over your opponents. In cases where your range is stronger across the board, you have more leaway picking sizing based on wetness and such other factors.
Frequency is just a byproduct of how many valuebets you have in range

Thanks for the response! I'm not sure I get exactly what you mean by the bolded bit though.

As an example, HJ vs BTN on K92r we're cbetting 66% of the time, whereas on K92hh we're only cbetting 38%. On K72r we're cbetting 84%, on K72hh we're only betting 43%.

Wouldn't the amount of value bets in both of these situations be the same? Our and villain's range of made hands is exactly the same, the only difference is there are now flush draws. Or wouldn't that mean, if anything, we have more value bets on the two-suit board because they're now calling with random flush draws that would've just folded to a cbet on the rainbow board?


Look at BTN's equity realization on the flush draw board compared to the rainbow board, it's much higher, therefore they can defend more, therefore you cbet less.


by 30buckschallenge k

Thanks for the response! I'm not sure I get exactly what you mean by the bolded bit though.

As an example, HJ vs BTN on K92r we're cbetting 66% of the time, whereas on K92hh we're only cbetting 38%. On K72r we're cbetting 84%, on K72hh we're only betting 43%.

Wouldn't the amount of value bets in both of these situations be the same? Our and villain's range of made hands is exactly the same, the only difference is there are now flush draws. Or wouldn't that mean, if anything, we have more value bet

If you bet bigger you don't have as many valuebets.
Getting called by a flush draw is not really a good reason to bet thin for value since the flushdraw, as part of a range that contains things other than flush draws, probably has higher EV than your hand, in this case a second or third pair. You valuebet to get called by hands you dominate or to fold out hands that have live equity


Thanks guys, that makes a lot of sense!


Okay, cheat sheet attempt #2. Does this sound reasonable?

To decide how often our range is betting here:

1) Are we in position?
2) Who has range advantage?
3) How many hands in our range can we value bet here?
4) How wet is the board?

then... if it's not a range bet, decide how often this specific hand wants to cbet

1) Where in our range is our hand? Strong, middle, weak?
2) Does betting help us realise our equity or hinder it?
3) Does the hand provide coverage? Might having this hand in our betting range be useful on later streets?
4) Are they check/raising often? Do we want to get check/raised?

then.. decide how big to bet

1) Which parts of our range have advantage? Who has nut advantage?
2) Do we want to polarise our range?
3) How polarised is our opponent's range?
4) What's the SPR? Do we want to bet geometrically?


Hmmmmmmm although have very quickly found a counterexample which my cheat sheet points you towards the wrong answer.

We open UTG, BB calls. Flop comes AT5r

- We are in position
- We have a massive range advantage
- We can value bet plenty of hands here (I think?). Like 35% of our range is top pair or better.
- The board is pretty dry

So all 4 of those factors point towards a cbet and my gut said this would be a range cbet, but actually we're only betting 60% of the time. What's going on here?! Something to do with equity realisation?

edit: oh, or we actually don't have many value bets because they have so much trash in their range? And a lot of their trash needs runner-runner to beat a large portion of our range, so we're not really folding out much live equity by betting either?


by 30buckschallenge k

Hmmmmmmm although have very quickly found a counterexample which my cheat sheet points you towards the wrong answer.

We open UTG, BB calls. Flop comes AT5r

- We are in position
- We have a massive range advantage
- We can value bet plenty of hands here (I think?). Like 35% of our range is top pair or better.
- The board is pretty dry

So all 4 of those factors point towards a cbet and my gut said this would be a range cbet, but actually we're only betting 60% of the time. What's going on here?! Somethi

The solver I use says to bet 91% of the time with a mix of sizings of 75%, 50%, and 33%. If you wanted to simplify to a pure 33% bet strategy on this board at 100% frequency I believe that would be fine in practice.

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