golddog goes for a ride

relax
sit back
and enjoy your trip

Don't understand it. The hotel in Delhi's wifi was giving me a cert error when I tried to hit 2p2 to post. Could hit the rest of the interwebs. Anyway, in Varanasi now, all good so far.

Flight from Newark pretty uneventful. A few times there was turbulence, and a kid across the aisle and a row behind me was being fidgety and loud for a while, but overall good. Another experience for Tom 'm going to spoiler since it will upset some people.

Anyway, land at Delhi, customs pretty quick, exchanged some $, bag came, and found my ride, Anjara. She drove me out to the hotel from airport, which was an experience.

One of the first things I saw was a horse in the road. Seemed to be a pretty busy main road or even highway, and there's a horse pulling a cart.

Traffic terrible, even late at night. Just worse during the day. Lane markings just opinions, as is direction of travel. Horns gong all the time, but it didn't seem to be mean-spirited. More like a toot or two to let another vehicle know that you're there. Yhey figure it out and things move, albeit slowly.

It's a lot to take in. Sensory overload achieved.

We talked about a few things on the way over, it was a nice ride and she was a nice driver. Get to the hotel and check in. Ask them if there's a place I can walk to, to get a beer. Not this late (it's probably 11:30 on a Saturday night). Well, it's ok, they're supposed to have a minibar, I'll take one and go to bed.

Nope, minibar means some snacks and a can of a protein shake or some such. Probably good, I should go to bed anyway. Just over 28 hours door-to-door, but remember I went to DIA real early. Probably around 25 for a normal person.

A pretty nice room though:

A couple of things different from US, of course. The switches are the button kind instead of the flip kind, and down is "on" instead of up. Also, even the outlets are powered by switches--I had to get help, because I couldn't figure out why the laptop wasn't charging. Oh, have to actually energize the outlet. They do the thing here I've seen in some parts of the world where you put the room card in a slot on the wall, which activates the electricity--so you're not burning lights while you're out.

Pretty spotty sleep that first night. Faced a highway, and even though traffic was lessening by the time I got to bed, there was enough horn noise I'd wake up every few hours. Not terrible, the windows were pretty well insulated. I'm sure a lot of it was adrenalin after being in a new country the first night too.

I will apologize in advance for the spotty reporting. I wasn't good at taking my notebook with the first while.

Got up the next day and went for a walk after breakfast--just after sunrise, about 7:40. One of the first things I saw was

Seems like that had seen better days. Initial reaction is it reminded me of Manaus. Infrastructure not great (broken sidewalks, wires hanging everywhere)--IOW, a developing country.

Yep, horses even in town. Saw quite a few, actually. Near as I could tell, they were being use like pack animals at construction sites to haul off debris.

Wandered down the main street next to my hotel, then back and underneath the freeway. It's nicely decorated.

Eventually found a gas station convenience store to by a Coke. When I gave him a 500 rupee not for a 40R Coke, he was having problems getting the change together. This became a repeated concern.

I didn't think to ask the money changer for small bills. However tit's around 83INR:USD1, so a 500R note is not quite $6. I can't imagine a business opening without that kind of money in the register.

Back to the hotel, ask them if there's a place I can go get some beer to go. SOFC< it's where I'd just been, just behind the first set of buildings. Doh!

After a while, another wander. Here's kind of a representative view of a side street I wandered down.

Tons of people set up their "shop" on the sidewalks. A lot of street food, but also saw several people selling locks, a couple of dudes doing barbering just on the street. It was very busy.

Eventually wandered into this place for lunch. Ordered a place of chicken fried with garlic. Guy picks up his phone, and calls someone. After a little bit, another guy walks in and orders; again with the phone.

A few minutes later, restaurant guy goes out, and comes back in a little while with our orders. Strange, I guess the kitchen was elsewhere.

The stuff was tasty, but very hot. LIttle hcuks of chicken with some spices covering it, and garlic and diced shallots.

When I went to leave, gave the guy a 500R note for a 200R bill. He asked if I had anything smaller. "That's what they gave me at the airport/" Eventually he borrowed some money from the other customer to get the right change back. Rally? You don't have more than 1.5x a one-person meal in change? I don't get the situation.

That evening, the three of us who had arrived met with the tour leader to discuss logistics and got for dinner. One guy was beat and stayed in, so the other three of us jumped in a tuktuk (my first time!) and went to a nice bar and restaurant in a shopping area not far from the hotel. Butter chicken FTW!

Tuktuk back, had one of the beers I'd bought earlier, then to bed. End day 1.

The next day, the three of us who had arrived plus the outr guide went out to see Old Delhi.

The first part was a tour given by a young man who works with a group that helps runaways.

Apparently, it's quite common for children to be in a bad place. He, himself, had been at a school where he was abused and ran away at age 9. These children end up in the 'big city' hoping they can make it there.

His organization reaches out to them, providing food and shelter, and trying to get them on a good path. Indeed, he was saying he'd been up all night studying for an exam, which might turn in to a scholarship with a chance to go to the US to study.

It was interesting but not particularly photogenic. Most of Old Delhi looks like it's about 20 minutes from falling down.

Next, we were off to an old mosque which is now a historic landmark. Still a mosuqe, but due to the historic nature, non-Muslims can go in and check it out.

On the way over, we saw one of the orignal gates from when Delhi was a walled city

At the mosque, it was a few bucks extra to go up in the minaret. I was the only one who did.

Views from partway up

Here's an idea of the stairs. About as wide as my sholders (and I'm by no means a big guy) and pretty steep, but at least they were darkish.

After coming down, we got some bonus monkeys.

Then wandered through the old town bazaar kinds place. Good thing this dude has his vest and hard hat, that makes it safe.

After that, we visited a Sikh temple.

I forgot what those instruments are called, but they reminded me of accordions only sitting on the ground. They guys were singing and playing for the crowd.

After the Sikh temple, we went for lunch. Next, headed to another old mosque, but this one was truly a historic site. Not in use, just the ruins from the 850s (?)

An up-lcoseof one of the pillars. Quite intricate, though by now weather has worn it quite a lot.

They built this tower, which was a minaret back in the day.

I want to say something like 379 fee tall, but I'm probably misremembering. The imam had to climb up all those stairs for the call to prayers five times a day. Unfortunately, closed now so we couldn't go get the view.

The guide also mentioned this iron pillar. Something about the purity is unmatched even by today's modern techniques, I think. If you put your back to it, and reached around, whatever percentage of the circumference your arms covered is indicative of how lucky you are.

I guess people with long arms are luckier.

Of course, that wears over time, so it's fenced off now. Plus, we don't want to have too much luck in the world.

Then, we had dinner at the hotel. Next day, Varanasi.

Had a late morning flight to Varanasi. On the way, we could see the Himalayas off in the distance. Wasn't obvious, kind of a streak of brighter white beneath the clouds.

Short flight, got there, and the group piled into the bus for the first stop at Sarnath. This is an important site in Buddhism, as it is where Buddha delivered his first sermon after achieving enlightenment to his five disciples. A local expert gave us quite a lot of information on the site.

This was the stupa built in Buddha's time.

It was a monastery as well, actually a pretty large complex they've uncovered.

Then we went over to another part of the site, which was a temple

and this little area which recreates Buddha's first sermon

The tree they're under is kind of interesting. Buddha attained enlightenment under a bodhi tree in Northern India. For reasons I can't recall, his daughter took a sapling off it and planted that in Sri Lanka. This tree was taken from a sapling of the second.

So, sort of Buddha's tree's grandchild.

Anyway, got to the hotel and had a nice dinner with the group. On the way in, I noticed a sign that said something like "bar and brewery" just outside the hotel gates, so walked over there.

Coming up the stairs, I noticed a couple of bouncer-type guys, then that some workmen were attaching handles to the doors. There was an LED disco ball sorta thing (lights instead of mirrors), and some dance music playing(but not too loud).

I was greeted by a young man in a light colored three-piece suit. Got a drink menu, and asked for a pint of their house ale. IT wasn't ready yet, all they had for beer was Bud, Corona, and something else.

Hm. No, I was looking for local beer, and definitely not a club. Thanked him for his time, and wished him well. I think I might've stumbled into opening night or something. Anyway, back to the hotel bar for one, then to bed. Pretty nice room.

Up early today and down to the Ganges for the twice-daily Ganga Aarti ceremony. It's done to try to coincide with sunrise and sunset.

First, this group started singing under the canopy.

Then priests did a lot of waving about with incense and fire. The Ganges is behind the priests, the canopy is to the right in the priests pictures. There's quite a lot of stone steps called ghats for the crowd to sit on.

This went on about 20-30 minutes. The crowd seemed to get a lot out of it. Afterward, we had a cup of chai tea. I'm not a tea drinker, but that was really good. Served in little clay cups, I could see why people here make a part of their daily routine.

One of our group brought some ashes (I think her husband's grandmother, who was Lutheran Norwegian) and did a little ceremony to put her ashes in the Ganges.

Then went on a boat and up & down the Ganges a little bit. This guy played his sitar and sang a bit for us.

Naturally, My Sweet Lord has been running through my head all day.

Our tour leader, Ruby, and some of the waterfront.

They're getting some of the pyres ready for funerals. Ruby said it's a 24x7 thing, but we didn't see one in action.

Afterward, the rest of the gang went on a walking tour of the old city. I was beat, so headed back to the hotel with Ruby. We had breakfast, then I took it easy for a while. Now lunch, and we're up to current.

Bonus monkeys from Varanasi city:

Oh yeah, the atmosphere of India sucks.

Not the "feeling", but the literal atmosphere, Terribly polluted. It's getting to me, a low-grade cough from all the smoke and pollution.

Lunch was at a vegetarian Thali place. Those of you who know me, know I'm pretty much the opposite of a vegetarian.

Thali means they bring you a platter with small bowls on it, then come around with different dishes. Scoop some of that into a bowl. Try some of each, and those you like, you can get filled up again.

Went surprisingly well. I didn't find anything I thought, "Wow! I need to have more of that!", but it was fine. A couple curries were nice.

I mean, sure, they all coulda used some chicken, but here we are. The drinks coulda used some whiskey, but that's not happening either.

A nice lunch with the gang. Soon head back to the river for the evening boat ride, then early AM tomorrow to the train station for Lucknow.

Where are all the stray dogs, beggars, and people trying to sell you stuff?

can't wait to get caught up on your posting
after a quick scroll of pics it looks like your having a memorable time

Stray dogs all over the place. Fewer beggars than I thought there'd be, except around places like Sarneth which are huge draws. None of them pictureworthy.

In the evening, back to the Ganges at sunset.

Most sunset river cruises do include drinks (no! Boo!) and don't include cows

people throwing cremated remains in the river

or funeral pyres

After that, we stood around for quite a while listening to what seemed to be a religious gathering, in Hindi, under a tent on the beach. Reminded me of the old time bible-thumping gospel from their mannerisms.

Anyway, after that, dinner, then back to the hotel.

Today, up early 5:00 call, so of course I woke up ~3:10) to catch a train to Lucknow. The train really wasn't that bad. Nothing fancy, but a decent seat.

Was able to get a little bit of snooze on the train. Was on the aisle, so didn't get a great view of the countryside, but what I saw seemed to be mostly agriculture.

Got to Lucknow, where Ruby had hired porters to move our bags to the bus. They got them off the train, piled them on a cart, and off they went. Of course, the faster they go, the more jobs they can do, and the more money they make. But they nearly lost us getting out of the station.

Found the bus, drove around a while, and it became clear the driver had no idea where the hotel was. After a while, Ruby was able toget them to send directions. To be fair, it's not in the middle off town, but still.

Here's the view

After lunch, we went to imambara complex, which is a mosque and old fort built a long time ago. Got toured around. While I like the architecture, this kind of stuff doesn't really interest me, so here's a bunch of pictures.

Got to see a camel

and the Lucknow clock tower

And one of the original gates to the city

After that, we went on a tasting tour of a few places in Lucknow by this foodie guy. As I am more assuredly not that, was unimpressed.

Back to the hotel after a long day. Tomorrow, bus to Agra, for the Taj.

Not, not the one the orange buffoon drove into bankruptcy.

Poor night's sleep in a mediocre hotel. I don't need much, but I need other guests not to be yelling in the hall, then blaring music.

Good thing we have a long bus ride ot Agra. See some of the countryside, probably snooze a little too.

Long bus ride. Getting out of town was an adventure; once again, the driver made some wrong truns, but finally figured out how to get on the expressway.

A couple stops along the way, but mostly just plowed through scenery.

The river at Lucknow. There's probably some water in it.

Mostly agriculture, with the occasional small village.

When we got closer to Agra, there was a section which reminded me of Nebraska's sand hills.

It was better the other side of the bus.

Around this area and the Chamba River, Ruby told us the story of the Bandit Queen. I can't do it justice, so here's the Wikipedia link for those interested.

Short story is that she was abused, exacted revenge, ran a banditry gang, and eventually became an MP in India.

We're going to take a short walk to a nearby village tonight, then some of us are going to a bar for drinks and dinner.

Really enjoying the pictures. Hope you're enjoying the adventure--even if a good cold beer is often hard to find.

Thanks, Tom.

On the LucknowAgra expressway, they have signs every so often trying to encourage safe driving. Saw one yesterday which read...

Hug your children at home. Belt them in the car.

I don't think that came out the way they wanted it to.

i see someone else was raised in a household lead by corporal punishment

Wouldn't say lead by, but there was some. We deserved it.

Caught a bit of a cold, not feeling great. Was told today would be a predawn trip to some dude's wife's grave.

****. I'm not a history buff, this probably isn't for me. Even wrose, feeling under the weather. But, I paid for it, so I should do it.

Spoiler

Show

OK, that's pretty good.

The joint opens the gates at dawn (turns out, 6:33 local), so we got in line about 20 minutes before. Met our guide, Farkhan, then went through security.

He was a great guide, A+ on knowledge and enthusiasm for the subject, Of course, it's like drinking from a firehose, so you'll have to get the details elsewhere.

Unfortunately the fountains are shut off Friday and cleaned Saturday, so we didn't get the full effect.

Quite hazy and foggy when we began, and the sun wasn't over the trees. This is the gate we entered.

As we got up there, Farkhan pointed out that the towers aren't plumb----they're one degree titled away from the monument. This is purposeful; if there's ever a catastrophe, they will fall away and damage the gardens, not the monument.

Remember, this was build about 400 years ago. The work is amazing. Highest craftsmanship. He said the marble has yet to need a replacement. They started a cleaning at one point, and found that made things worse. Due to the manner in which the stones were cut and the type of material, it's better at shedding off the effect of pollution than what they could do.

There's also a mosque on either side of it.

Everything is perfectly symmetrical with one exception--Shah Jahar's crypt is off-center. The wife's is in the center (it's who the monument was built for, by the Shah), so his interment was kind of an afterthought.

Took 22 years to build this magnificent structure, in the 1600s.

After that, back to the hotel to wash up and have breakfast, then on the bus most of the day, down to Ranthambore NP.

Some nice scenery along the way.

Bed early tonight. Take some NyQuil, hopefully feel better to go see tigers in the morning.

Or maybe this'll kill me. Good thing Varanasi is close by.

Up early today for the park. Feeling a bit better. Still congested and cough, but not so bad.

Cool predawn, 9C. They had blankets to wrap us up. Jumped into an open-top jeep and down the road we went.

I was in the front-left seat. Noticed over the driver's shoulder the check engine light was on. Let's go into a park filled with tigers and have a breakdown! Kinda thinking along Jurassic Park lines.

Most seemed to be a forested land, but not thick.

Sun came up

Saw some birds

and tiger tracks

I forgot what kind of deer this was, but it's tiger's favorite food

Spotted spotted deer

They made an alarm call if they thought there was trouble. Can't describe or replicate it, but it was fairly loud. Surprisingly to me, who grea up around whitetails which don't make a sound.

Some nice scenery

by the gate, where we took a rest break

Some kind of eagle

Black faced monkeys

and crocodiles

At this point, a truck with an Indian family invited us to pull up, and shared their coffee and cake with us. That was nice of them.

Monkeys getting fruit

Spotted deer family (I imagine)

Mongoose up a tree

Some scenery

Bats

This building used to be a "hunting palace" before the land was conserved to NP status. Apparently Queen Liz stayed here.

Crocodiles now. Insert your own joke here.

At this point, our time is running short. On the way back to the gate, there's quite a few vehicles parked. We pull up to see what's going on, and they're saying a tiger is somewhere around the palm tree.

After waiting around a while, a tiger comes down the road from a different way

The two of them met up, and did a little what seemed like play fighting

Pretty amazing. Reminded me of the leopard I saw in Africa, in the way they walk, and how powerfully-built they are,

Back through the gate and down the road to the resort, where we had a late breakfast. Tried to lay down a bit, but still wired (and when I got back, somebody was letting their child screech).

But, I'll tell you what, that's a pretty good day.

We were going to go to Ranthambore fort in the afternoon, but it's closed because there's a tiger up there. Seems to me to be all more reason to go, but what do I know?

After failing to get a nap in, went for a walk around the complex, then down the road. It's a pretty nice place.

Agricultural area, seems to be mustard and rice.

Also came across this goatherder.

After I went by, heard a noise. He'd pulled down a branch from one of those trees. Don't know the kind (maybe locust?), but the goats sure liked it.

Random observations about India.

It's dirty. It's loud. But everything gets figured out. The traffic is horrendous. Everybody honking. People move forward a bit, then things break, and you go for a little while, then come upon another congestion.

The expressway, though, they mark the lanes with overhead signs for slower, 100 km/h. then overtaking, and people pretty well respect that.

There's a person for every job, and usually multiple. Kind of, the porter hands your bag to the bellman, who then brings it to the room. Last night, I got a beer from the bar, and told them I was just going to take it back to the room. It was a little tough to convince them that it wasn't necessary for them to carry the beer for me--it's on the order of 100 feet.

The service is very good and seems to be genuinely friendly though.

People are awesome I realize being marked as a tourist maybe weights the people I meet toward the friendly side, but even when I was wandering around Delhi on my own, people would give me a, "namaste" and smile.

Mostly people who had a service or something to sell would not be too persistent once I said no. One time, this dude was following me (on the sidewalk) in his tuktuk, offering to "go anywhere for 200 rupees". Told him I was out for a walk, and he kept puttering along, repeating his offer.

Except he's on the wrong side of the street, driving into traffic, and seemed to be paying more attention to me than the traffic. Of course, everything worked out.

With this craziness, we did witness the aftermath of only one accident. On the sidewalk in Lucknow after dinner, we heard a screech and thump. Appeared a cycle or scooter ran into a vehicle parked in the street. Driver was rolling around in the street in pain. They got that person to the sidewalk. A couple vehicles with lights on top passed by (not sure if they were authorities). We left before somebody came to help.

The food is great I'm not an adventurous eater. Breakfast and dinner at this place has been buffet-style, so get to try some stuff without having to have a meal if I don't like it. The joke in our group has become about me ordering butter chicken because a) I like it and b) order it all the time.

Usually, I'll go mixed; they have omelets or boiled eggs, then I'll get some Indian stuff too.

That said, I will be looking forward to getting a burger or something upon my return.

Don't drink the water Well, at least that's what we're told. There's been a couple times I've reached for the tap when brushing, but so far have remembered in time tp use the bottled.

So far, good trip despite the noise, pollution, and getting a little cold. Don't think I'll come back, but you never know.

Tomorrow's plans are a game drive early, then breakfast, then jump on the bus to Jaipur. Just a few days left, leave 29th early AM.

Really interesting stuff, thanks for sharing.

Thank you!

I thoroughly enjoyed that day of the trip! Unfortunate timing to be a bit under the weather.

the taj majal
bengal tigers
crocs and mongoose
plus bsts up in the trees

seems like your trip sucks so far
suggest rebooting and trying again from the beginning