2/5 SRP multiway flop action

The flop isn't the issue. The issue was raising UTG with A2s, especially against Muppets who'll likely call with most of their Ax.

P.S. I know you're a newbie here, but proper posting form is to not give the full action/results until at least 24 hours has passed.

Grunch:

PRE - Just guessing that people might criticize opening A2s from UTG, especially if the standard open in the game is $30, likely indicating we should be playing tighter.

I'd say it's marginal at best. I'd fold if we get 3B. And we need to be cautious about how we play post-flop.

FLOP - Four ways to the flop, with two players behind us, and this board that doesn't smash our UTG opening range, I'd mostly just check, not c-bet.

I'm mostly range-checking flop as the PFR and OOP to multiple opponents anyway. But I think a check with our specific hand makes sense, because it would suck to get raised, have to call, and then face a huge turn barrel if we don't make our hand.

If we want to c-bet, I'd go very small, like 1/4 pot or less, maybe $30 at most, not $50, which just seems way too big here. And if we're worried that $30 is going to induce a raise, then just check.

As played, when UTG1 and MP flat call the $50, and then BB jams, it's an awkward spot. I'd be leery of over-committing here. What sort of range are we giving our three opponents?

I'd think UTG1 has to have a piece of the board when he calls next to act, MP really has to have a piece when he over-calls, and BB can't be screwing around when he over-bet check-jams a 78BB short stack after seeing this action.

I'd think all our opponents have hands that are currently beating ours. I think we could just fold here, and not lose sleep over it.

Once re-jam and they both call, we're just along for the ride, so what happens next doesn't matter much as far as analysis goes, because we don't have any decisions to make.

UTG1 showing up with KK after flatting pre is unexpected, for sure. But BB showing 53s and MP showing 33 shouldn't be shocking, when we bet $50 into $122 as the pre-flop raiser on 953 two-tone, UTG1 calls, MP over-calls, and BB jams.

BB's jamming range should be very strong here, when we c-bet, and get two callers. Maybe he has 64cc, 87cc, or 76cc, but more likely, he's going to have 2P or a set.

MP might be floating wide when, but he really shouldn't be, once UTG1 calls. MP should have a piece of the board, at least TPTK, or a draw to the nuts (which we partially block).

Trying to range all three opponents, given the action, is why I wouldn't be excited to re-jam, and would lean towards a fold. We're just drawing - yeah, to the nut flush, but also to the bottom end of a straight, with an ace that's always out-kicked if we happen to make top pair.

Short answer to your question - just check the flop from OOP. You could probably escape with minimal damage if it goes x-x-bet-call-jam. If the fireworks are delayed until the turn, it's even easier to get away. As played, just fold to BB's jam.

This situation could be avoided by not opening A2s from UTG for 6BB's.

I don't mind the open at all I think you can go a pip or two wide with a suited A from UTG. But suggest opening with like a GTO adjusted to live strategy where you open smaller EP, wider LP (CO, BTN) but that's just personal preference. Flop is okay for our specific hand but really bad for our range multiway. Plenty of overpair and sets in the other players calling range. Check range here and evaluate how the players behind act. As played obviously never folding here on the flop, so I think the point for you to evaluate is how you construct your multiway check range and whether you like the Cbet. I know I don't have any multiway solvers to view but even UTG vs button flat heads up this is a range check in GTO and I expect with two players to act behind instead of just 1x it becomes a pure pure pure range check.

Some further thoughts about this:

1. Understand the game you're in. Like, why is the standard open 6BB in a 2/5 game? That one fact leads me to think the reason is that people are calling too wide, everyone sees it, and so the standard open has crept up to 6BB. If we want to avoid playing the turn multi-way, we could limit the likelihood of that happening by opening for a larger size pre.

If the response is, "I don't want to open 7x or more with A2s," okay, fine. Don't. Fold pre, and avoid this situation. Open a tighter range for a larger size in this game, especially from EP when there's a fish in the blinds that we want to iso, and capable players with big stacks to our left.

2. There's "capped", and then there's "CAPPED". We need to understand what we're looking at here, when action comes back around to us on the flop, which means we need to do some hand-reading.

First off, the board is 953, and we raised UTG. That's not our board. That's our opponent's board. Maybe not UTG1 who flat-called next to act pre, but if we know MP is very passive, and BB's a fish, we should know they're going to connect with that board more often than we will.

When we c-bet and UTG1 calls next to act, with two other players still in the hand, he's either got a strong TP or better, or a draw to the nuts. Since we've got all the over-pairs in our range, he's got to have at least A9, and occasionally he'll show up with some TT+ that decided not to 3B pre. He can't just start blasting off unless he's got 2P+.

When MP over-calls, he's really supposed to have a piece of the board. And if we have him marked as passive, that should mean he's not necessarily raising with his strong hands - he might just flat call with 2P, or even a set.

Neither of those players is overly capped here.

We don't have a pair. We just have a draw. Even if one of these three opponents just has a draw, we block their naked nut flush draws, so their most likely draw is going to be a combo-draw like 64cc - a hand that includes two of the cards we need to make the nut flush and one we need to make a straight.

We have to look at this logically - we block AXcc. They can't all have 64cc, 76cc and 87cc, because that's impossible. Someone here has at least TP or a slow-played over-pair, if not 2P+, and a set isn't impossible. It's unlikely but not impossible that one opponent has a set, one has 2P, and the other has the same or a different 2P, or we're looking at set-over-set-over-set/2P.

Against three ranges of TP+ and 8-out draws that include 2 of our outs, our hand just isn't strong enough to call the BB's jam, much less re-jam. Our hand looks like a huge combo draw, but in a 4-way pot facing this action, it probably isn't as good as we think.

We've probably got 10 outs at best, and often only 6 (if someone has 64cc, 76cc, or 87cc, and we can't have the board pair with the 3c). So we're like 25% to 40% at best here, if we jam and get called.

Folks will give you a hard time on the preflop bet. I don't hate it, but we need two things:
1: Vs won't 3! anywhere close to enough.
2: Know we are going to play better post-flop against the whole table.

Raising UTG with a hand as weak as A2s is saying "I don't believe anyone at this table has the guts to 3! me at an appropriate frequency" - which given the following action is probably true. For #2, it means we can navigate some of the stickier post-flop positions we will find ourselves in.

Flop: This is a flop we should be checking somewhere around 80-90% of the time against one V. Against a field I think we need to check 100%. Out of three Vs, somebody almost always has something, and while we have a draw to the nuts, there are a ton of turns that could get us in trouble against hands that dominate us. Is an A or 4 good for us on OTT? We have a hand that has pretty good equity and could turn the stone nuts, but at the same time is vulnerable to being dominated. If an A rolls off OTT, we can't be confident that is enough. So my goal with this hand would be to keep the pot small and try to realize my equity as cheap as possible.

AP, once we bet and action comes back around we have to call $340 into a $662 pot. That means we need 34% equity to break even against just the BB player. Against 53 exactly we have 41%, against a set we have 33%. If we give him a range of just sets and two-pair, we have 36% equity. So if we somehow knew everyone else would fold, we have barely enough equity to justify the call. Is BB shoving worse here when he is closing the action on a $50 bet? I don't think so. Materially all bluffs he could have include the Ac. So I think 2-pair is the bottom of his range.

With just calling the BB being very thin, we now have the problem of realizing our equity against the others. Your instinct to shove makes sense on the surface because if you don't hit OTT, you're in a really difficult spot to realize your equity. I think the problem comes in with what is going to call your shove and what will fold. You got called by KK, which is a blunder from V, KK is a super easy fold in his position.

We should be called by all the sets, and a lot of the folds should be hands that include 1-2 clubs. So if our jam folded both other players, I'd bet dollars to donuts that at least two of those four cards were clubs. That creates a problem because if there were two clubs that mucked, our odds against BB with two pair declines to 35% and against a set would be 28%. Our matching of the BB's bet is now negative EV. If one or both players call, you're up against a set more often than not and our equity is only around 30-35% where we really need 40%+ to be positive EV.

So essentially, when we shove here we are creating a situation where if both Vs fold it indicates they had some clubs and now our odds against BB don't justify the call of his shove. If either V calls, we are probably drawing thin against a set and we aren't getting the right odds for our FD. Either way, we probably are not getting the right odds, even though that NFD is so tempting. In game, it is so appealing because it is so wonderful when you do this and you bink your flush for a $4k pot. It is equally painful when you fold and you see that you would have hit.

But emotions aside, you weren't getting the right odds to play against BBs shove. Sometimes the NFD is a fold. In game, I'm not sure if I would have found the fold button, it's much easier behind a computer with an odds calculator handy. However, if you internalize that getting it in with the NFD isn't always great multi-way when opponents are showing a lot of strength, maybe you can adjust your play accordingly and sometimes find that fold button. If we're going to play A2s OOP against multiple Vs, I think we need to be extra cautious in these types of scenarios. I'd start with checking hands that might have good equity and draws to the nuts, but we don't necessarily want to take to the mat. We can let it check through, then semi-bluff the turn if nobody shows interest.

Opening A2s preflop would be standard with a "normal" size.
Opening 6x, you should tighten your range quite a bit: tbh I don't know whether this range still includes A2s.
Anyway, given how deep you are, I am ok with the opening.

As others have said, flop is a range check, ainec.

As played, you block most of BB's draws (only 64cc and 76cc would make some sense). Anyway, in my experience, an ordinary fish doesn't play draws aggressively, so BB has almost always 2p+.
Against this range, you have barely the equity to call the c/r, and obviously 0 fold equity, plus you have two people to act after you.
It's an awful spot, and I think it boils down to how much variance you are willing to take.

I think you can open this in a live 2/5 game but in theory against better players this deep you'll probably lose money. Flop looks good not much else you can do here.

Pre: I wouldn’t open anything below ATs here, especially not 6x. In general, I feel that being very nitty from UTG in a FR game is never a bad thing. I doubt that opening absurdly nitty from UTG in loose passive games with a range of ~AQs+, AKo, and TT+ does much damage to our winrate, while it significantly reduces variance.

Flop play: I feel your actions should be weighted toward two distinct goals: (1) draw to the nuts vs. the field as cheaply as possible, or (2) get everyone to fold their equity.

As played, I would flat the all-in, hoping to keep other players in, and draw as cheaply to the nuts as possible. Drawing to the nuts (the straight likely also being a nut out for us) will, on average, play out very similarly whether we’re up against one player or all three.

In general, I like a check, and depending on the action, a c/r if I believe I can get them to fold OTF or OTT somehow.