AA all in

If you know more I suppose you can reason with someone, I agreed with something but I didn't with something else. Don't care about convince anyone, but it is like a teacher in scholl is not supposed to get questions from student, we are lucky enough that someone in the past didn't accept passevely all other people opinions. Because listing doesn't mean I have to agree with you, but I like to have a different point of view.

One last thing, you didn't suggest all the same thing, so I'm not going against a general opinion but I'm discussing with who have a different one to understand why it is like that.

In conclusion, please feel free to block me if you don't like my way to post on here, all the best and good luck.

It looks like you've been a member of this forum for an entire 24 hours, and you're already fighting with others. I don't know if you're socially awkward and/or just a combative person.

Try to do better at reading the room.

OP, my above was advice as a moderator of the forum. You'll get better responses if you don't respond to each one and if you put all the information like villain reads and relevant history in the OP. It's OK to ask for clarification or to post info you forgot, but if half the posts in the thread are from you, that will turn people off.

You don't want me to do that, as a block from me would ban you from the site. I don't think what you are doing is ban-worthy, but your posting style has been very confrontational thus far. Just chill a bit and let the responses come in, and I think you'll find this a better experience.

I think that villan reads are part of the game and I'm supposed to give you this piece of informarions, for example here I think it is a valuable information.

My game wasn't that good because I didn't bet the right amount in more spots, so despite the reads I gave you, you could still give me some advises, I didn't agree with some of them (not all) so I wanted a clarification, you can just say, like you did, "ok it is fine then", or give me other informations on this, but on here many users just said I shouldnt ask question and I want to teach stuff, while I just asked for clarification.

Regarding you blocking me, yes I meant the ban, I'm happy to receive suggestions about the game and the way to post on here, but if you don't like it you can ban me and it is fine with me. It is funny cause I saw people on here insulting other users and didn't get ban, but it is not my job and not my forum, so just do what you think it is best.

Whish you all the best again 👍🏻

OP, I think you have a bad read on Garick. He's trying to help you get more effective answers, not hating on you.

As others have said, if you think you can get worse hands to call by overbetting the pot, then the sizing is fine. For most situations, it is too much. You're going to get answers based on most situations.

Welcome back.

It takes courage and integrity to return and take responsibility. Good on you. I can't speak for everyone, but I'm always willing to give someone the benefit of the doubt and / or a second chance, especially when they ask, which you seem to be doing.

As far as the frustration you were feeling goes - we've all been there. Whenever I go through a downswing, it's hard for me to be certain if I'm playing bad or just running bad, and the not knowing is part of the frustration.

So...re-reading the OP and thread...

It's been a while since I played 1/2. I mostly play 1/3, and my personal opinion is that a 5BB open is more or less the correct default sizing in a raked game. My general observation is that a lot of people who post 1/2 hands here mention $10 opens (also 5BB's).

It seems like there was a $4 straddle in this hand. When someone puts on the $6 straddle at 1/3, I generally just default to a $20 open, which is only 3.3 BB's. My reasoning is that even if there are now three blinds and more money in the pot, our stack depth hasn't changed, so I'm trying to keep the SPR higher / more manageable going to the flop.

I imagine 1/2 is maybe slightly splashier than 1/3, so that might argue for using a slightly larger multiple. Also, if I was in the SB and the BTN just limped, I'd think his hand was probably trash, and so I'd be raising a wider range, and would want to use a larger size.

So, I might make it $20 here. You might get away with going a bit smaller than that, like $16 or $18, but I like raising in $5 increments, so I'd probably default to $15 or $20, and my gut feeling is $15 probably isn't big enough.

FLOP - I originally said I'd like to check from OOP to go for the x/r, but in hindsight, I don't hate a c-bet. But it's important to understand what we're trying to accomplish with our sizing, and what it means / what we should do next when they call.

Option A size - bet small, like 1/3 pot or less, keep their continuing ranges wider, with the understanding that a small size may induce raises, either for value or as a bluff.

Option B size - bet huge, like full pot or more, forcing them to only continue with their best hands and highest equity draws, with the understanding that we'll have to proceed more cautiously on later streets.

You over-bet. I hated it at first. It's probably not what I would do, even now, but I understand the urge to charge all our opponents' draws. However, if we over-bet and get called, we need to be fairly certain about our opponents' ranges before we bet again.

The fact that BOTH our opponents called our big c-bet would have me VERY concerned. Neither of them should be calling with worse value than top pair, or a pair + a decent draw. When we bet so big, neither of them has much incentive to raise yet, so either of them could have 2P or better.

The 3s on the turn isn't a terrible card. It doesn't complete the front door flush draw. But it does make 64 a straight. 86 was already a straight. If someone had a hand like A9cc, A8cc, A6cc, T8cc, T6cc, 98cc, 87cc, 76cc, 65cc, or 54cc, they just picked up a lot more outs.

The reason I'd prefer to just check flop is that if the action checks through, we are more likely to have the best hand, and we can bet large on the turn 3s. If we check, UTG bets big, and BTN raises, we may be able to get away from our hand, if not on the flop, at worst by the turn.

But when we c-bet the flop big, our opponents are probably only calling with strong hands or hands that can easily improve. So on the turn 3s, our opponents' ranges now fall into these buckets:

Nuts - flopped or turned straights, some with re-draws to a flush.

Thick value - sets and 2P.

Thin value - TPGK, possibly with a redraw to the nut flush. Any top pair + straight or flush draws.

High equity draws - combo draws, 1P + a draw

Low equity draws - gut-shots and draws to non-nut flushes.

We might have the best hand here. I'd feel better about it if we were heads up, or if we knew our opponents were super-loose calling stations, the type to get here with a lot of trashy 1P combos with no re-draw.

But when UTG calls our flop over-bet next to act, he's supposed to have a "real" hand. When BTN over-calls, he's REALLY supposed to have a "real" hand. When we jam turn, it's hard to think we have them both beat. Even when we do, we're probably not very far ahead of their combined ranges, and we need to dodge a ton of cards.

It's hard to not fall victim to entitlement tilt when we're dealt AA. But I'd have preferred to just start out by checking flop, and seeing what happens from there.

I would check/reevaluate on the low connected flop. I might just x/c. You need to be careful with a big pair multiway.

They played badly preflop, but you may not have played well postflop.